Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Fuji-san shows himself

We left K's Tokyo Oasis hoping that all our future accommodation would be as good. We had to go, we had an appointment with the Shinkansen, the bullet train! We first took the Tskuba Express to Akihabara, the electronics district, where, as we had a couple of minutes to spare, we had a quick look around. Luckily most of the shops weren't open yet - it being only 9am - so the temptation to check out all the new electronic stuff shop to shop was quelled and we moved on to Tokyo station pronto. Got there on the JR Yamonote line which gave us our first chance to flash our Japan Rail Passes, yippee!
The shinkansen was unlike any train we'd ever seen, sleek, streamlined and the front looked flying swan-like. I suppose what was more amazing was how the train was treated by its staff... with respect. The cleaning staff moved through the cabins before we boarded, taking real care in what they did. The white-gloved station staff went through the motions of checking doors, checking the time and waving their flags with a diligence we are just not used to. The conductor and the "trolley-dolly"on board the train would bow as they entered and exited each carriage. Can you imagine if the Blue Train staff took even half as much interest/care in the way they carried out their respective roles? Wow!
The trip to Odara - gateway to the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park - was a short 35 minute hop on the bullet. The Hakone area is the closest resort to Tokyo and certainly gets its fair share of domestic tourists - it was busy. Luckily on the way there we had the most amazing views of Mt Fuji from the train. It just popped its head out above the clouds, it looked fantastic. Just like on all the calendars. We decided to head directly to the Fuji-Hakone Guest House, dump our bags and then sight-see after that. Of course to do that we first had to catch the switchback Hakone Tozan train to Gora via a change at Hakone- Yumote, then catch the Tozan cable car to Sounzan (more like a funicular tram than our cable cars), then the Tozan Ropeway (like our cable cars) to Togendai and then a boring old Tozan bus to Senkyoro-Mae where we were staying. The weather had closed in as we caught the last ropeway and as such the view of Mt Fuji was non-existent. (So lucky that we'd already glimpsed the peak from the train). Our guest house was great. It had two onsen (hot spring baths), one inside and one outside. We walked around the vicinity of the guest house and chanced upon a beautiful shrine stretching up the mountainside. Full of mossy stone statues and a gorgeous pond full of massive koi and budha statues. It was beautiful and deserted. As the cloud was right down it looked so peaceful and mystical. Luckily it wasn't mentioned in any guide book otherwise it would probably be overrun. Found a tiny place to eat before going back to enjoy our half an hour private slot in the outside onsen...pure bliss and the end of a magic day.

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